Zaftigs Delicatessen: #9 for NatGeo, but #1 in Brookline hearts
Standing in the cramped waiting area of Zaftigs Delicatessen this morning, I read a framed, National Geographic article about the top 10 delicatessens in the U.S.A and Canada. Posted there beside the door, I scrolled through the list: Some place in Quebec, several spots in N.Y.C., Chicago, California, and then, toward the bottom of this short list, was Zaftigs in Brookline, Mass. I recently received high praises about Zaftigs from a Foodie Chick guest reviewer, whose entertaining comments you can read for yourself below, so I knew it was high time I get my behind over to this popular spot before my vacation, and therefore my ability to eat guilt-free, was over.
A few things I must say about Zaftigs not included in the review below:
* The coffee is phenomenal. It's smooth, not bitter, and you'll find yourself drinking refill after refill after refill, which you'll never have to ask for.
* The egg white omelettes are about the fluffiest I've ever had. I don't recall having such a thick and tasty omelette ever before, anywhere. And they're not shy with the cheese. Yes, I eat cheese-filled egg white omelettes -- have to save my calories somewhere.
* The Chocolate Brioche French Toast is delicious, but not gooey. If you're looking for melted chocolate, you won't find it here. It's fairly light for such a heavy sounding dish, and the raspberry dipping sauce is a perfect complement, though you may find yourself dipping occasionally in some plain, ole' maple syrup. While I think this is a novel idea, I would go for the Challah French Toast next time around.
* Get the marble rye toast.
* Stop in for a small treat some time. The case of sweets and particularly the coconut-topped cupcakes inside it were staring me down.
And now, without further ado, your Foodie Guy Guest Review...
Zaftigs Delicatessen
Location: 335 Harvard St., Brookline, MA 02446
Hours: Daily 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Phone: 617.975.0075
Reservations: Zaftigs only takes limited reservations. Please call for further details.
Payment Types Accepted: American Express, Cash, Discover, Gift Certificates, Master Card, Traveler's Checks, Visa
Step into my Delorean and let's take a trip back 22 years to 1986. No flux capacitor required.
I don't need a Google search to remind me that '86 was a fantastic year. Leading off with a New York Football Giants Superbowl XXI 'W' in January and culminating with a World Series win for my beloved New York Metropolitans in October. (Stop blaming Buckner.) Both game and series provided epic comebacks.
And, while Madonna was busy being "Tru Blue" and Peter Gabriel was releasing one of the most underrated albums of all time in "So", I was a blissful 4th grader.
And I was fat. Really fat.
There is an easy way to picture me in the 4th grade. Remember Chunk from Goonies? If he really did get rubbed out by the Fratelli Family, I could have stepped in and no one would have been the wiser. I mastered the truffle shuffle.
On any other site this might be a problem, but here as a guest scribe for Foodie Chick: Your Hostess in Boston Dining, it's a blessing. Because it was 1986 when I was old enough to fully appreciate the culinary genius of New York-style Delicatessens.
Now, growing up in New York you'd think I'd experience this delight IN New York. Not so. With my Grandparents living in the Sunshine State, it would take a trip to Florida to open my eyes to this wonder.
Florida was once wildly famous for its New York Jewish Delicatessens. The restaurants are hard to describe if you've never been to one. Think of the biggest diner you've ever been to, with the most crotchety waitresses and staff - and then double it. But, what these places lacked in service and style, they made up for in the food. Bountiful plates of pancakes, challah French toast and eggs. Lunch - sandwiches piled so high with pastrami or turkey on rye, it's hard to see how anyone finished one in one sitting - let alone three.
Everything was available on the menu at any time. Every self-respecting Jewish person has been raised worshipping not only the Torah, but the coleslaw and bread basket diet served up as an appetizer at places like Wolfie's, Pumpernik's, and my first experience -- Rascal House.
Sadly, all three of these establishments have shut their doors. (Replaced by the likes of chain delis such as TooJays in West Palm Beach and elsewhere around South Florida.)
But, not to worry.
As Ray told Doc Graham in Field of Dreams, "places like this really do exist, and if you want to go, I can take you there."
So, fast forward 22 years to 2008. Family comes to Boston for a little visit. You know the drill. Need a place to take them for brunch. On a Wednesday. (Who travels to visit on a Tuesday and Wednesday? My parents, that's who!)
I don't need to think about it for a second when Zaftig's Delicatessen in Brookline pops into the brain.
- Jewish Deli:
- Serves everything all day for picky crowd:
- A little nostalgia for the parents:
- Great food:

A short walk from my place we head up to Zaftigs and we are not disappointed. Unlike a Saturday or Sunday morning, the place is relatively empty at 11 am. (Disclaimer: If you do plan to go on a weekend morning, be prepared to wait. And wait. And wait. And wait. Rick will not be seating anyone right away.)
The atmosphere is crisp and open. As you walk in the staple case of baked goods (huge chocolate-frosted cupcakes and brownie bars) is immediately calling your name. At least it calls mine. We were seated right away and the omnipresent wait staff was very attentive. It's one of those places where you have your primary waiter or waitress, but the other folks waiting on other tables are eager to pitch in and get your service right. The big fella, aka, my father, appreciated that.
As we noshed on the complimentary bagel chips brought to the table with the menus, we all decided to order breakfast foods, except, naturally, for the aforementioned "big fella" who ordered a "starter."
I was dead-set on ordering the chocolate French toast (described as Chef Lisa's chocolate brioche, battered and grilled, raspberry sauce) when a waitress strolled by with a stack of blueberry pancakes. Like a Wendy's commercial touting the new Frosty, I was sold. But, not before a little negotiation. Mom was set to order a swiss cheese omelette. And when she saw the "cakes" she was in for those, too. So we brokered a deal to split a cheese omelette and a stack of pancakes.
For $7.95 omelette does come with a smallish fruit cup, some very tasty home fries and your choice of toast. Still longing for a taste of sweet challah, I ordered the challah toast, which is an option along with your regular choices.
The omelette did not disappoint. Certainly large enough for two people to split -- and just the right mix of cheese and egg. (I did order the egg whites, trying to keep it healthy -- funny)
But, much to my chagrin, the buttermilk pancakes that I was so eager to scarf down did not taste as good as I imagined they would have. They were big, dry and a bit floury. I think the next time I have a hankering for pancakes at Zaftigs, I may try the Granola Pancakes or the Banana-Walnut Pancakes. Both for $8.95. Both come with an interesting date butter.
Round the table another omelette was ordered by my Aunt. But, the big prize came to my brother, who chose wisely with the challah French toast. I must say the French toast was delicious. It lasted on my brother's plate for about 2 minutes. And he was in bathroom for about 1:30 of that.
But the big winner of the day was "big fella." He went in with something called a Zaftig Combo for $10.95. This "starter", complete with a cheese blintz, potato pancake, potato knish, and noodle kugel nailed the spirit of Wolfie Cohen's Florida delis. A big eater in his own right, he didn't even come close to finishing it all. As a retired doctor he was flabbergasted at the thought of someone ordering a starter AND a regular meal. Talk about keeping health care in business.
There was no way we had room for one of the dessert items, although there was much deliberation about getting either the Double Chocolate Fudge Cake (Chocolate crumb crust, fudge frosting, and whipped cream) or the Challah Bread Pudding (House favorite, with raisins, served warm with vanilla sauce). Each $7.00.
All-in-all my clan was very satisfied with the Zaftig's experience. We'd certainly go back for an encore. I'd definitely return again with my brother who graciously picked up the entire bill. Something I never could have imagined as a fat little fourth getting pummeled by a steady diet of blows to my head after beating his high score in Super Mario Brothers.
Happy Dining!
FG
Zaftigs is located at 335 Harvard Street in Brookline, Mass. Get there by 9 am on weekend mornings if you want to avoid a long wait for breakfast.


I totally agree with you. Zaftigs Delicatessen will always have the number one spot in my heart.
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