Radius Restaurant
|
Location: 8 High Street, Boston (Map) Chef: Michael Schlow Opened: January 1999 Cuisine: Modern French Expect to spend: $50+ (double that to do it up) Dress: Do you really want to go to a nice place in jeans? Setting: Clean canvas with a burst of rouge and candlelight Bar/lounge: Yes Private dining: Yes Parking: Valet, street Restaurant's Web site: Radius Foodie Chick Review Date dined: September 1 Occasion: Enjoying last days of Summer Highlights: Sweet crab, red meat, wine samples and the service Lowlights: Market Tasting entree was light on the protein. Also, follow the restaurant's advice and don't order off the bar menu during your meal. Overall: It's been seven years since Radius won Best New Restaurant (2000) by Food & Wine Magazine, but that's seven years for Chef Schlow to further refine a menu that could tickle the palettes of the pickiest gourmands and win over even your basic meat-and-potatoes eater. I admit it. I've planned many dinners over the years and Radius has never been top-of-mind. There's really no reason why that is, other than maybe its somewhat ghostown-like Financial District location on the weekends. The restaurant has been recommended to me by both close friends and acquaintances, and I'm aware of the various awards and recognitions it has received over the years. It's also currently ranked by TripAdvisor as the #1 restaurant in Boston, though that's a status I take with a grain of salt given the source of the various reviews (i.e. tourists vs. locals, etc.). That being said, I was looking for an excuse to throw on a sundress one last time before the leaves start to fall and it becomes entirely unfashionable to wear white. We decided to go to Radius. I knew I would enjoy the modern French fare, especially after returning from a trip to Paris last year that's left me with a constant craving for a particular Cru Beorgeois Medoc and various gourmet goodies. But I was also looking forward to the meal because I am intrigued by Chef Schlow's background.  I was raised a New Yorker and I'm a baseball fan. I converted to Red Sox Nation in grade school, though I started out as a follower of the 1980s Yankees, defined by such legends as Don Mattingly, Dave Winfield and Rickie Henderson (and briefly my personal favorite Kevin Maas), and now I earnestly track both the Sox and Mets. I know none of that makes sense and I've probably committed a cardinal sin in some states, but it's fun and helps me win my fantasy baseball leagues (sometimes). What does that have to do with Radius? Apparently its Brooklyn-born chef and cookbook author was a would-be baseball pitcher had he he not chosen the path he did. After dining at Radius, I am thrilled he picked up the kitchen utensils over the ball and glove, though I wouldn't mind seeing that 92-mph fast ball. I probably just lost anyone who was actually here to read a restaurant review. Without further ado, here's my two-part take on Radius. It's a two-parter because the bar is worthy of a review in itself. Part 1: Bar and lounge Foodie Guy and I arrived about an hour early. We were hungry, very hungry, and frankly wanted to get out to start snacking (drinking). Our reservation wasn't until 9:00. The ever-elegant and hospitable Radius partner and general manager Esti Parsons greeted us at the door. Before she even had a chance to introduce herself, we'd beelined to the bar. (Note last paragraph.) The entire restaurant's decor was immediately evident as my eyes roamed the bar/lounge area and dining room. Surrounded by candlelit tables, dark and cream tones, rich woods and splashes of red, the setting is formal yet relaxing -- and appetizing.  To get a sense for the tone, take a peek at this picture of the downstairs lounge, also where the private dining and wine cellar is located. As we slid onto the cushioned bar stools, we were welcomed by Ted. Ted is not your typical bartender. He dresses in a suit, knows how to describe a wine and freely shares samples of any glass you choose. He had no problem pouring one, two, three samples for Foodie Guy, whose tastes we discovered were not entirely in line with Ted's suggestions. We considered moving to a small bar table beside the floor-to-ceiling glass panes facing Summer and High Streets, but decided to stay put. Rather not miss out on the interaction at the bar and opportunities to try some wines we may not have tasted otherwise. As someone who's swimming in research about the numerous grape varietals, any opportunity I have to try another wine is welcomed and appreciated. I particularly enjoyed the 1999 Domaine des Espiers Gigondas Cuvee Tradition. Foodie Guy preferred the 2003 Trinchero Cabernet Sauvignon. As we started on our second glasses of wine, we also spent considerable time perusing the menus -- both the bar and regular menus. We were so hungry we nearly ordered the Spicy Duck Quesadilla with chipotle sauce to hold us over, but decided not to spoil what we knew would be a big dinner. Still the spicy duck established a mental reminder we would not soon forget. At 9:00 on the nose, we were seated. The 12-hour fast was coming to an end! Part 2: Dinner The dining room is fairly open, but we were directed to a more secluded table for two. The placement of large, white pillars in the pseudo-corners of the circular area provide privacy and some spacial comfort for a few diners.  Carlos, our dining host for the evening, ensured that we were comfortably seated as we were handed the menus and wine list, with which we'd already become quite familiar. But even after scanning the menu for an hour prior to being seated, I had no idea what I wanted. Didn't help that I'm generally indecisive anyway. Radius' Market Tastings offered the ideal option for me. It's a four-course meal entirely based on my basic likes and dislikes, seasonal offerings and the chef's whimsy. Excellent! Also available is a 4-course Vegetable Tasting and a 7-course Deluxe Chef's Tasting. I would have ordered the latter in a heartbeat, but I knew my eyes were bigger than my stomach, particularly considering I had every intention of nibbling off of Foodie Guy's plates.Carlos asked me a few questions: Do you like sashimi? Do you like shellfish? I liked where this was going. After he began to develop my menu, Foodie Guy requested the Rib Eye, an excellent choice as we'd soon discover, but had a much harder time choosing an appetizer. Not quite as adventurous in the eating department, options like the Vermont Rabbit or Tasmanian Sweet Crab were not jumping off the page at him. I was about to eat four courses, and there was no way he was just going to watch. This is about the point when that spicy duck reminder went off. We asked Carlos if there was any way that we could order the Spicy Duck Quesadilla from the bar menu. He, very apologetically, explained that the one house rule was not to have bar food in the dining room. Thinking that might be the case, we completely accepted that fact and Foodie Guy took a chance with the Foie Gras -- adventurous afterall. That was just the beginning. A small, perfectly crusty-on-the-outside, warm-on-the-inside French roll was placed on each of our side plates. We tried our best not to eat each roll in 10 seconds flat, but we quickly learned that the bread was limitless. As soon as the plate was empty, a roll magically appeared. An important factor for carbies our there, as bread crumbs scattered our crisp white table cloth. After that first roll, I managed to restrain my bread intake. Needed to save room, I thought to myself, just as small treat arrived. The amuse bouche is something I could easily see myself ordering on its own as a lunch: A sampling of chilled cantaloupe soup with finely chopped carrots, thinly sliced asparagus and sweet seasoning, this amuse bouche was a nice, little tongue tickler to prepare me for the interesting flavor combinations to come. Next up we both had an opportunity to try another appetizer we hadn't considered (there are perks to being a foodie). Actually, I considered it very strongly; it was crab and there's never a time I don't consider a shellfish option on any menu. The Tasmanian Sweet Crab appetizer was presented with a dollop of finely sliced spicy red cherry salad, topped with a moist yet light and flaky sweet crab, topped with an avocado puree, then served with drizzlings of pistachio and green tobiko -- the roe typically served with the best sushi. (Did you get all that?) This unexpected relish was a major highlight of the meal, and it is the one thing I will tell everyone to order when dining at Radius. Note that I'm speaking for both those who do and do not enjoy seafood. I savored every bite and finicky Foodie Guy nearly cleaned his plate.  Shock and awe. I examined our table in between courses. It was decorated by a small tea light and some understated, dark pink flowers, while other tables along the walls had more dramatic botanicals. The foie gras arrived with my next surprise "tasting," the sashimi, yet another appetizer I debated ordering before going for the 4-course meal. This was all working out very nicely. The foie gras was truly like eating butter. This liver was in no way pastey or "livery." It was thick, mild and not at all unlike cutting into a block of warm, oozing butter. Its flavor reminded me of the juicy bits you get off the bottom of a cast-iron skillet after cooking a fine piece of meat. It was an excellent spread, and we took full advantage of its condiments and our bread rolls. Still, as a sushi fan, the sashimi was more to my liking. Ahi sashimi-topped tempura. I had three large pieces of the fresh, melt-in-your mouth goodness on my plate and ate every one. I would need to pace myself, as I was already feeling full and about to move on to my third glass of wine, second glass of bottled water and who knows what course. You can order wine pairings to go with your entire Market Tastings meal. I started in about half-way through since I already had two glasses at the bar. Carlos brought me a crisp white to complement my next course: a large scallop served over a seaweed salad with bits of eggplant-filled phyllo; yet another fresh and tasty course, though the crab was still my favorite. The photo above will give you an idea of the girth of that scallop. It was right about this time when Carlos served us a surprise, one Spicy Duck Quesadilla, compliments of the chef. In fact it was so unexpected, we felt guilty that a house rule was broken and a little silly for requesting it in the first place. While we did appreciate the opportunity to taste the duck we debated ordering, I understand why they established the rule of no bar food in the dining room. It was heavy and spicy, two things I would have greatly enjoyed if it had not been so out of place when served in succession with our delicate dinner courses. I am glad we tried it, and would order it again, on its own, at the bar.  Finally time for our entrees. Finally. Ha! Here I'd eaten my biggest meal in weeks and I hadn't even begun the entree.I was served a slice of rib eye, medium-rare and succulent. Each bite dipped in Tempranillo wine sauce melted in my mouth. I would have loved this plate, except for the fact that it was light on the meat and heavy on the sides, including medium-hot and spicy, thinly sliced fingerleaf potatoes and cucumbers, which did little to cut the heat, as well as spinach leaf-wrapped couscous that I didn't give due credit. I particularly enjoyed the potatoes, and may try to make something similar at home, but it was approaching 11:00 and I was only interested in the meat or moving on to dessert. May not have helped that my slice of meat rivaled Foodie Guy's full serving. See the mouth-watering photo. Note the circular theme in every plate I've either described or pictured. I don't think that's just a coincidence over there at Radius. They have some very creative and beautiful plating techniques, and the round theme repeats itself all throughout the meal. It is also clearly stated in the architectural design of the space. Such subtleties helped thread the senses and enhance an already fine-dining experience. Last but certainly not least: dessert! Carlos asked Foodie Guy what he'd like to order, ensuring me that my Market Tasting would not be the same. I was definitely ready to taste two different desserts. Part of me was also slighty expecting to receive a cookie-sized portion of whatever full dessert Foodie Guy may get. Not so! Foodie Guy received the Pilon De Chocolat, a bittersweet chocolate "cone" served upside down and filled with fenugreek ice cream on top of salted nuts. Beside it, a dollop of rum raisins and caramel. It was a chocolate-heavy, delicious dessert. As far as I'm concerned, you can never go wrong with bittersweet chocolate and nuts. Yet somehow I liked my dessert more. I received a mildly sweet, frozen ricotta cream on top of chocolate-covered pistachios in a small pool of caramel. Capping off the ricotta were three large, balsamic-swolen cherries divided by ginger wafer cookies. I don't even know where to begin. I do enjoy ricotta to a point in my pasta dishes, but I couldn't get enough of the frozen, smooth, soft Italian cheese when spooned with the chocolate, nuts and cherry flavors. I actually commented on the life of such a plump, round cherry and how it made its way to our table. My fourth glass of wine was set in. That's when I knew it was time to go. The other clue, which kept me from licking my dessert plate clean, was the fact that my cute summer dress was beginning to feel like a girdle. Nearly three hours after arriving, we threw in our napkins and brought our marathon meal to a close. I had just a bit to say about that one. Although I would not consider every plate I had a favorite, the entire meal was well balanced, inventive and tantalizing. I could not wait to see what they'd bring me next. If you're not afraid to try new things, the Market Tasting is the way to go at Radius. Until next time, I'll leave you with a picture of my cherry friends... Happy dining wherever you may be!  |
Comments